Gay

"Gay style actually sets trends. It’s what straight people take fashion from."–Tony Woodcock
From the New Edwardians and muscle boys to Radical Drag and Genderfuck, gay men’s dress has had a profound impact on fashion. However, it is easy to forget that, with few exceptions, gay men earlier in the century took great pains to conceal their sexual identity. Men such as Quentin Crisp, while highly influential, were far from the norm. Most gay men resorted to a number of subtle dress codes to identify themselves to other gay men – from Oscar Wilde’s famous green carnation, which was still being worn in the 1930s, through to suede shoes.

Despite the canonical status of the written word in forging the Zionist-Israeli national narrative and its subversive derivatives, the emergence of gay consciousness in the mid-1970s relied more on cinematic representations than those found in literature, journalism, or popular music.